Bakuchiol Face Oil for Winter Skin

The Short Version: Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient many people use as a gentler-feeling alternative to retinol. In small studies, a 0.5% bakuchiol cream was compared with retinol and was generally well tolerated (those studies did not test this elixir or bakuchi oil). For dry winter skin, many people apply a few drops of a face oil, like Elemi Facial Elixir, which includes bakuchi oil among its twelve plant oils, over damp skin morning and night.

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Every winter, the same thing happens. The heat comes on, the humidity leaves, and my face starts to feel a bit more like sandpaper than skin.

And every winter, someone asks me the same question: is there a plant-based alternative to retinol? Some people find retinol a bit intense on their skin, so they go looking for something gentler. That is how bakuchiol (say it "buh-KOO-chee-ol") became one of the most searched skin care ingredients around.

What Is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient from the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), long used in traditional Ayurvedic practice. In skin care it is often described as a retinol alternative because it is used in similar anti-aging routines, even though it is a different compound.

People reach for it because it tends to feel gentle, and skincare companies use it in products meant to help skin look smoother and more even. Research on bakuchiol is still fairly small, so I would treat it as a pleasant part of a routine rather than a miracle. It is not a drug, and it will not do what a prescription retinoid does.

A note on bakuchi oil vs. bakuchiol: Bakuchiol is a single compound purified from the seeds of the babchi plant, and it is the ingredient in most of the studies below. In my elixir I use bakuchi oil, the whole cold-pressed oil from those seeds, with nothing isolated out. It is one of twelve plant oils in the blend and makes up a small part of the formula, so I don't claim the elixir does what a bakuchiol cream does. I include it because bakuchi oil is so closely related to bakuchiol and has such a long history of traditional use.  

What the Research Shows

The best-known bakuchiol study is a 12-week, randomized, double-blind trial of 44 adults, published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2018. One group applied a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day, and the other a 0.5% retinol cream once a day. Both groups had a significant decrease in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between them, and the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging (Dhaliwal et al., 2018).

Now the honest caveat. A 2024 systematic review of 15 human trials found that most were small, open-label studies without a control group, and many tested bakuchiol combined with other ingredients, so the authors called for better-designed research (Fanning et al., 2024).

Another 2024 review of anti-aging cosmeceuticals gave bakuchiol a lower recommendation grade (C) than retinol and vitamin C (A) (Lau et al., 2024). A 2022 review also noted one reported case of contact dermatitis (Puyana et al., 2022), which is one more reason to patch test.

One last point: those studies tested bakuchiol creams at set concentrations, not my elixir or whole-seed bakuchi oil. Of course, my elixir has not been part of any clinical trial. So I think of bakuchiol as a promising ingredient and a pleasant partner in a routine, not a proven replacement for anything. (Study details from articles retrieved from PubMed.)

Why Winter Skin Loves a Face Oil

Cold air and indoor heating pull moisture out of the skin's surface, which is why a face can feel tight by mid-afternoon. A facial oil does not add water. What it does is help seal in the moisture that is already there, so skin feels softer and more comfortable.

That is why the trick is layering: cleansing first, followed by a misting of toner or a nice frankincense hydrosol, followed by a hydrating and nourishing oil. Then, sunscreen in the morning if desired. Think of the oil as the lid on the pot.

Where Elemi Comes In

I make my Elemi Facial Elixir by hand. I melt elemi resin, a relative of frankincense and myrrh, into organic jojoba oil, then blend in 11 more plant oils with cold-pressed bakuchi oil among them - nearly every one organic. These include rosehip, marula, moringa, argan, baobab, tamanu, sea buckthorn, and olive squalane.

Elemi has a bright aroma of lemon, pine, and black pepper, and traditionally it was called the "Resin of Light." That is traditional use, not a promise about what any product does, but it is a lovely bit of history to put in a bottle. I use the Canarium madagascariensis resin from Madagascar, and there is no added fragrance: the scent is just from the plant aromatics themselves.

Customers tell me they love the natural aroma, the way it absorbs, and how soft their skin feels afterward—even those with oily skin. It comes in a Miron violet glass bottle, which blocks out nearly all harmful UV light to help keep the oils fresh.

Check out the Elemi Facial Elixir here →

How to Use It

A little goes a long way. Three or four drops cover the whole face and neck, morning and night.

1. Cleanse, and leave your skin slightly damp.
2. Mist with toner or hydrosol.
3. Warm the drops of oil in your palm.
4. Dab them onto your cheeks, forehead, nose, chin, and neck, then blend with gentle strokes.
5. In the morning, finish with sunscreen if desired.

As with any new skin product, do a small patch test first, and check with your dermatologist or health provider if you use prescription skin care.

❓Quick Questions

Is bakuchiol the same as retinol?

No. It is a different, plant-derived ingredient that people use in similar anti-aging routines. It is not a drug, and it does not do what prescription retinoids do.

Can I use a facial oil with oily skin?

Many people with oily skin enjoy a lightweight oil, and some of my customers with oily skin love this one. Start with a drop or two.

Can I use it with my other skin care?

Many people layer oils after their other products. Do a patch test first, and check with your dermatologist or health provider if you use prescription skin care.

How long does the elixir stay fresh?

At least 6 to 9 months at room temperature. Refrigerating it helps the delicate natural plant oils last longer.

Can I use bakuchiol while pregnant or nursing?

People often ask about bakuchiol as an alternative to retinol, which is usually avoided during pregnancy. Studies in pregnancy and breastfeeding are limited, and the elixir also contains essential oils, so please check with your own health provider first.

These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. This product is a cosmetic and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.